Do not land a Level 2 charger on leftover knob-and-tube or on older aluminum branch circuits. Those systems were not designed for a continuous 32-amp or 40-amp 240-volt load, and splicing a modern EV feeder onto them is the wrong repair. The charger gets its own new branch circuit, with conductors and overcurrent protection chosen for that job, back to a modern breaker in a suitable panel. The rest of the house may still have knob-and-tube or aluminum wiring; that is a different assessment, and it can still affect insurance, inspections, and whether the panel itself should be replaced first.
Aluminum service-entrance conductors are not the same topic as aluminum branch-circuit wiring; the electrician should say which one you have. Likewise, a house can have a sound 200-amp panel and still have obsolete wiring in the walls. Adding an EV circuit does not automatically require a whole-house rewire, and a whole-house rewire is not something this site will budget from a national average we do not have.
Have the electrician look at the panel, the existing wiring type, and the load, then permit the new EV run as new work. If the insurer has already flagged knob-and-tube or aluminum branches, read the insurance page and deal with that condition on its own terms. Capacity for the charger still goes through the calculator.
This is not a permit calculation, a utility approval, or a substitute for a licensed electrician, HVAC contractor, or the authority having jurisdiction. Panel Headroom is an independent educational site. It is not a utility, a certification body, or a contractor. Electrical and generator work that is done incorrectly can cause fire, shock, or carbon monoxide poisoning. Use the adopted electrical code and manufacturer instructions; pull permits where required.