There is no honest default well-pump wattage on this site. Honda’s home table does not list well pumps, and starting current varies too much to invent a number. Add the pump’s nameplate running watts and its starting watts (or locked-rotor amps × volts), add the refrigerator (Honda: 132–192 W running, 1,200 W starting for an Energy Star unit), and then add only the larger of the two starting increments to the running total.
Rural homeowners ask this constantly, and guessed “half-horsepower” charts on random blogs are where bad advice starts. If the pump’s starting increment is larger than the fridge’s 1,008 W increment (using Honda’s 1,200 − 192 figure), the pump sets the surge requirement. If the pump nameplate is missing, stop and read it on the motor or in the manual rather than assuming a forum average.
Enter both loads as a custom nameplate plus the fridge checkbox in the generator calculator. Many well pumps are 240 V, which a 120 V-only generator will not run correctly.
This is not a permit calculation, a utility approval, or a substitute for a licensed electrician, HVAC contractor, or the authority having jurisdiction. Panel Headroom is an independent educational site. It is not a utility, a certification body, or a contractor. Electrical and generator work that is done incorrectly can cause fire, shock, or carbon monoxide poisoning. Use the adopted electrical code and manufacturer instructions; pull permits where required.